Technical Support Blog

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Innovation by One Stroke Inks

I try to never speak of the competition. I concern myself with our business. Our ink. If we always create the most innovative and effective ink for the fabric in question, there is simply no reason to be concerned about the competition. I am concerned with the next big thing. Here is the catch, the next big thing is not what I want it to be. It will be what you need it to be. We don’t dye fabric. We don’t cut and sew tees or uniforms. We react to the marketplace. Big money brands who influence the marketplace such as Nike, Under Armour, and Adidas will tell the world what to wear. Smaller manufacturers not spending billions of dollars on advertising will follow suit to produce a far less expensive version of this apparel. We simply keep a close eye on what these fabrics are and pounce on the opportunity when problems arise. Problems always arise.

This is how ELT Series was created. Extreme low temperature ink sounds so obvious now doesn’t it? I would love to say that we simply dreamed up the idea and knew it would be a hit. Not at all. We had a customer share his experience of screen printing 100% polyester sweatshirts. These sweatshirts used to be smalls, mediums, and larges before they were decorated. Once the fabric met the 320ºF heat of the conveyor dryer, we had a much differently shaped sweatshirt. This was unacceptable as their customer would certainly not accept these miniatures. It was an expensive situation but it raised an excellent question. Why not manufacture an ink which can cure at a lower temperature?  Of course! I won’t waste your time or our secrets to tell you how we manufactured these inks. Just know that we have good people who know things about things.

So why did our competition not do this? Well, at first they said it was impossible. It did not appear impossible to us as we were already doing this but they are known to say some things. Next, they decided to force plastisol screen printers into silicone ink. This seemed like the coolest plan ever. Silicone is super-stretchy. It had a pretty cool feel. Unfortunately, it also has difficulty sticking to fabrics, hates fuzzy material, experiences dye migration, and has a very short shelf-life. OK, that may not have been the best plan. The bright side was many of our customers who were loving our ELT Series ink convinced us to make an ink with that cool silicone ink feel. ELT-S Series was born and this concluded the silicone ink experiment for many more screen printers who were tired of that process.

Finally, I am hearing that our competition may have a low temperature ink specifically designed to compete with our ELT Series. 3 years after the original introduction of ELT Series we finally have a follower. That last word is exactly the point I am going to make about our competition. Follower. We are the innovators. Our competition follows us and hopes to make an ink which is kind of like ours, just cheaper. This is not how One Stroke Inks operates as we don’t concern ourselves with the competition. We concern ourselves with our customers, ink quality, and the next ink which will help you out of a jam. Why would we copy something our competition is doing if they are simply making a cheap version of our innovation from 3 years ago?  Just wait until you see what we have next.


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How To: ELT Zip Transfers

Previously I wrote about low temperature transfers. Low temperature transfers are becoming more important as delicate fabrics invade the apparel decoration industry. However, the biggest downside of low temperature transfers is the fact they must be printed on cold peel transfer paper and then peeled cold. Additionally, we have many customers decorating some very difficult polyester fabrics and sublimated polyester fabrics which require maximum bleed resistance.

Enter the ELT Zip Transfers! We developed this as a true solution to stopping dye migration and protecting the fabric from heat-related damage. Also, even though these transfers are screen printed on cold peel paper, we have formulated the ELT Zip Transfer inks to peel hot, immediately after transferred. Zip!

Here’s what you need to get started:

  1. Cold peel transfer paper. We offer the T-105 paper for the job. Important note: Other hot peel papers may work with the ELT Zip Transfer inks and process. You must test to be sure. T-105 will always work.
  2. ELT Zip Transfer Powder. There is a “fashion” and “performance” version of this powder. A good rule to follow is apply performance powder for bad bleeders and fashion powder for everything else.
  3. ELT Zip Transfer ink. This ink is required. Other plastisol inks will not peel off the T-105 paper while hot. Also, the opacity and bleed resistance is outstanding!
  4. Multi-color tranfers will require a vacuum platen. Otherwise, you can make this work on your standard press and platens.
  5. Conveyor dryer.
  6. Thermolabels.
  7. Heat press.

Step 1:  Art work and screens

Your art work should be set up to be “mirror image” as you are screen printing transfers now. It will be backwards until you turn the paper over and heat press it to the fabric. For most ink transfers, we highly recommend 86 count screen mesh. 110 is also very effective. For all other screen mesh counts, you will need to test and see if you can achieve effective coverage, bleed resistance, and release from the paper. Expose the screen with the art work as you always do.

Step 2:  Screen Printing

If you are printing one color art, simply register your screen so the print is near the middle of the transfer paper. Many transfer printers will gang up designs so every pull of the squeegee is actually printing multiple transfers. This will lead to less pulls of the squeegee and less paper use, saving time and money.

One item to forget about is the flash cure unit. It is not required, expected, or even recommended to print, flash, print ink onto transfer paper. Flash curing ink onto paper is a time consuming, paper curling process. This is another reason for the coarse mesh count. Without the ability of flash curing and printing a second layer, ink deposit is critical. If opacity matters, ink deposit matters.

Once you have given the print a flood stroke and a couple of pulls of the squeegee, you are ready to powder the transfer. This must be completed while the print is wet so the powder will adhere to the ink deposit. Everybody has their own method for powdering the print. Some decorators simply pour powder out of a small cup over the print and then they shake off all the excess powder. This is pretty quick and efficient. Others have a small bin and they gently lay the paper face down into the powder. Again, they will have to blow, or tap all of the excess powder off the print and paper.

Important note: Any excess powder left on the paper where it does not belong will leave a clear/white stain on the fabric. This is hard to remove so you want to take great care in preventing the powder from sticking to the paper. One way to help this is to send the transfer paper through the dryer prior to printing. This will remove moisture which tends to be a problem.

Step 3:  Dryer Temperature

Low temperature transfers are just that…transfers that can be heat pressed at a low temperature. However, the ink must be fully cured to the transfer paper with the low temperature adhesive powder applied for this process to work properly. ELT Zip Transfer inks are fully cured at 320ºF. This means you must fully cure the ink to the paper at this 320ºF temperature. We recommend the use of a #5 Thermolabel to ensure 320ºF was met.

Step 4:  Heat Pressing Instructions

Preheat the fabric with a short 2 to 3 second press to remove excess moisture and smooth out any wrinkles. The heat press should be set to 280ºF for 10 seconds, medium pressure. The transfer should be peeled hot. Typically this means you should lift the press, wait a second or two, and then peel the transfer while it is still hot. However, if you do allow it to cool down, the ELT Zip Transfers will also peel cold without any problems.


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How To: Low Temperature Transfers

Low temperature transfers are becoming more important as delicate fabrics invade the apparel decoration industry. If you have not experienced any heat-related damage by heat pressing fabrics such as 100% polyester or fluorescent tees, you will. It is unavoidable at the high temperatures required for hot split, hot peel, and cold peel transfers. Luckily, we have developed a method of transfer printing which only requires a 10 second press at 280ºF. This will prevent most heat-related damage. This will also provide better bleed resistance for use on polyester fabrics.

Here’s what you need to get started:

  1. Cold peel transfer paper. We offer the T-105 paper for the job.
  2. ELT Zip Transfer Powder. There is a “fashion” and “performance” version of this powder. A good rule to follow is apply performance powder for bad bleeders and fashion powder for everything else.
  3. Any plastisol ink. Select the ink depending on the fabric. Polyester fabric will require a polyester ink.
  4. Multi-color tranfers will require a vacuum platen. Otherwise, you can make this work on your standard press and platens.
  5. Conveyor dryer.
  6. Thermolabels.
  7. Heat press.

Step 1:  Art work and screens

Your art work should be set up to be “mirror image” as you are screen printing transfers now. It will be backwards until you turn the paper over and heat press it to the fabric. For most ink transfers, we highly recommend 86 count screen mesh. 110 is also very effective. For all other screen mesh counts, you will need to test and see if you can achieve effective coverage, bleed resistance, and release from the paper. Expose the screen with the art work as you always do.

Step 2:  Printing

If you are printing one color art, simply register your screen so the print is near the middle of the transfer paper. Many transfer printers will gang up designs so every pull of the squeegee is actually printing multiple transfers. This will lead to less pulls of the squeegee and less paper use, saving time and money.

One item to forget about is the flash cure unit. It is not required, expected, or even recommended to print, flash, print ink onto transfer paper. Flash curing ink onto paper is a time consuming, paper curling process. This is another reason for the coarse mesh count. Without the ability of flash curing and printing a second layer, ink deposit is critical. If opacity matters, ink deposit matters.

Once you have given the print a flood stroke and a couple of pulls of the squeegee, you are ready to powder the transfer. This must be completed while the print is wet so the powder will adhere to the ink deposit. Everybody has their own method for powdering the print. Some decorators simply pour powder out of a small cup over the print and then they shake off all the excess powder. This is pretty quick and efficient. Others have a small bin and they gently lay the paper face down into the powder. Again, they will have to blow, or tap all of the excess powder off the print and paper.

Important note: Any excess powder left on the paper where it does not belong will leave a clear/white stain on the fabric. This is hard to remove so you want to take great care in preventing the powder from sticking to the paper. One way to help this is to send the transfer paper through the dryer prior to printing. This will remove moisture which tends to be a problem.

Step 3:  Dryer Temperature

Low temperature transfers are just that…transfers that can be heat pressed at a low temperature. However, the ink must be fully cured to the transfer paper with the low temperature adhesive powder applied for this process to work properly. Most plastisol inks are fully cured at 320ºF. This means you must cure the ink to the paper at this 320ºF temperature. We recommend the use of a #5 Thermolabel to ensure 320ºF was met.

Step 4:  Heat Pressing Instructions

Preheat the fabric with a short 2 to 3 second press to remove excess moisture and smooth out any wrinkles. The heat press should be set to 280ºF for 10 seconds, medium pressure. The transfer should be peeled once it has fully cooled down as the paper will not release the ink until then.